Vines above. Truffles below. Images of karri forest, cool-cimate misty mornings, open fires spring to mind. Thella Estate is both a serious truffle grower and a premium wine producer.
The truffles are actually grown in Manjimup, while the vines are in Pemberton located off the Vasse Highway on Eastbrook Road. If my memory serves me well, in the late 1980s a very large farm owned by the Littlefair family was broken up into smaller lots which became vineyards.
Those were Salitage, Picardy, Eastbrook and a vineyard owned by Drs Raad and Samaha. It is from the doctors’ vineyard that Below and Above came into being. Since 2013, the current owners, John and Evdokia Klepec, have made significant improvements in the vineyard replanting 7.8ha to premium clones of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot. Of the 34ha of vines, only the top 5% make it into the Below and Above range – the aim being to produce small-batch premium wines. The wines are made by Bruce Dukes, who as usual shows a deft hand in raising these wines to a very high standard. All in all, a lovely set of wines. I couldn’t really separate the pinot and the chardonnay Both were exemplary and well worth seeking out.
2020 Below and Above Chardonnay
From a warm, dry vintage, this Gingin clone chardonnay was fermented and matured in French oak barrels for 10 months. At four years of age, it shows youthful fragrances of pear and nectarine, with a touch of flint and savory. In the mouth it springs to life with layers of spice, savoury oak and intense fruitiness that treads with elegance. The acidity is fine and clean. The finish is long and satisfying. Excellent now but will age (13.2% alcohol. $48)
2020 Below and Above Pinot Noir
From the fifth vintage of the newly planted pinot clones there is real complexity here. Perfumed cherry fruit and spice have developed nicely, flowing into the mouth with intensity of flavour and pleasing tannins. Clean, lively acidity carries through to a generous lingering aftertaste. An excellent Pinot, highlighting the quality possible from Pemberton (13.9% alcohol. $55)
2019 Below and Above Merlot
From a cooler vintage this Merlot came from new clones that were closely planted after the French practice. Made in the Bordeaux style, this is a quality wine with length and power. Spicy fruit tobacco and coffee aromas. Generous texture fine tannins, a touch of earth and integrated oak make for a very fine drink that will improve for a few more years beyond its current age. (13.8% alcohol $45)
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