The Busselton Jetty may be the iconic view the Geographe area is known for, but this down south getaway provides an alternative water view.
A group of black swans approach at a low angle, just before they reach the water their broad wings spray out almost still to act as air brakes, while their webbed feet press down like water skis, slicing through the smooth surface, slowing and settling gently.
Their landing appears seamless and natural, as if they are returning back to their comfortable base.
Looking out from the floor to ceiling window at Samphire Chalets in Wonnerup, near Busselton, I’m feeling pretty comfortable myself.
Tuart Chalet is one of three situated on this property located along the Wonnerup Estuary. The design of the accommodation and the inclusion of high end fittings provide a luxurious setting for an escape from the everyday.
The view through the wall of windows provides a seamless connection between the indoors and outdoors, and celebrates the natural surrounds.
The estuary is part of the Vasse Wonnerup Wetlands which play home to tens of thousands of birds every year.
The lounge in the chalet is the perfect place to sit and watch the comings and goings of the bird life, and potentially spot some of the 90 bird species that come and go from this area.
I saw birds preening in the sun, a swamp harrier looking for prey in the long grass, a white necked heron standing guard on a nest, little birds with lanky legs pecking at the ground for bugs and worms and enjoyed the sounds of the whistling kites.
While it would likely be a bird lover’s paradise, the quiet activity across the water even managed to have this non-twitcher comparing beak shapes, wing spans and colour patterns.
For those who enjoy immersing themselves in nature but being within close proximity of modern conveniences, Samphire Chalets is the perfect spot.
The surrounding farmland and natural landscapes provide a feeling of seclusion, but like the graceful black swans on the water, you can come and go as you please.
With a light and bright sleeping and living space – and friendly welcome swallows by your door to greet you back from any excursions – the place quickly feels like a home away from home.
The adults-only destination is a relatively new accommodation offering in the area and visitors have their choice of the beach or forest right on the doorstep and town a short drive away (10km).
Also, just up the road (less than 2km) is Malbup Bird Hide. The camouflaged shelter is another option for observation of the local waterfowl and bush birds on the Vasse Wonnerup Estuary.
Whether it was done on purpose or not, I am not sure, but the design of the kitchen and dining area in Tuart Chalet at Samphire reminded me of a sophisticated take on a bird hide.
In the rear of the chalet, the black surfaces, including the appliances, and the dark wood interior, with a long rectangular window providing yet another vantage point to observe nature, made for a modern and comfortable nod to the raw wood and windows of a dedicated bird watching hut.
The creature comforts such as reverse cycle air-conditioning and a luxurious king size bed made relaxing easy and once I was ready to settle down for the night, it was as easy as pushing a button to bring down electric block-out blinds to provide instant privacy.
Samphire Chalets is a perfect place to fluff up ones feathers, tuck in, and only pop up your head when and if you feel like it.
Dining out
All three of the Samphire Cottages have everything you need to cook and enjoy a meal in, but when you want someone else to do the cooking Busselton is a short drive away.
I may have been dining in the South West, but when I chose the set menu at Inara in the heart of Busselton, I went on a culinary journey beyond the region’s wineries and breweries to the Middle East, and specifically the crossroads between Africa, Europe and Asia.
Inara, which means ‘shining light’, dishes up Levantine cuisine, which celebrates the flavours that connect Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey, and Cyprus.
Daniel and Joanna Johnson opened the up-scale restaurant in late 2023.
They proudly claim it as Western Australia’s only dedicated restaurant that showcases food from the Levant region.
The banquet menu started with a shawarnma shish tawook, which is a traditional flatbread topped with marinated grilled chicken and pickled cabbage.
As the food arrived at our table so too did aromas reminiscent of the Mediterranean.
The freshy cooked bazlama za-atar arrived at the table, warm from the oven, with an air pocket still keeping the flat bread (rubbed with a nutty-spice blend) puffed up, ready for pulling apart.
Dipped into the creamy tanginess of the whipped feta, the mix of pickled grapes, candied figs, thyme and pistachio made for a satisfying combination.
The broccoli tabouleh was like nothing I’d eaten before, with the addition of mulberries bringing a zesty twist.
I savoured the flavour of the Jerusalem Shakshukit slow roasted lamb shoulder dish, but the standout dish for me was the chargrilled Beagle Island octopus.
With our banquet menu meal, which comprised of a total of seven dishes shared with my dinner date, I enjoyed the syrupy, floral tasting of a jallab flavoured drink.
To round out the full Levantine taste experience the final dish was a deconstructed lemon tart dish, or an agristrada, which suited my sweet tooth perfectly.
*The writer’s stay was provided by Samphire Chalets and dining experience thanks to Inara.
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