Eclectic is the only way I can summarise the six wines for this month’s review, as they have little or nothing in common. However, they do reflect changing times.
One wine is from Greece, one of the countries embracing modern winemaking practices and now competing for their share of the international market.
The other five wines are from Australia but showing unusual varieties or production methods. Australian consumers have been raised on varieties from France (Chardonnay, Sav. Blanc, Shiraz, Cab. Sav) and Germany (Riesling). But more recently it has been recognised that with our broad range of viticultural climates many of the vast number of European ‘native’ varieties, especially from Italy and Spain, may be better suited, hence the emergence of ‘natives’ such as Sangiovese (Italy) and Tempranillo (Spain) and now a plethora of other less known grapes.
Have you tried Vermentino, Negroamaro or Furmint? .
The Wines
Akakies 2014 Sparkling Kir. Yianni Amyndeon, Greece
A confession – my experience of Greek sparklies is, to say the least, limited. Of my more than 17,000 tasting notes, there are only about 30 from Greece and only two of those were sparkling. My notes reveal why I did not pursue more! However, this wine is different. This is new-age Greece with clean, faultless winemaking. A rose style, the colour is a vibrant cherry red, the mousse very active. A clean, modern wine made from the Xinomavro grape, displaying a fruity nose, and on the palate simple fresh flavours of strawberry and red cherry. The sweet finish (residual sugar of 18g/litre) makes it widely appealing.
Dr Craig Drummond Master of WineHahndorf Hill 2014 Gruner Veltliner, Adelaide Hills
This grape is from Austria and, with Riesling, is the backbone of that wine industry. This wine is the first Aussie example I have tried so I can only judge it on Austrian standards and it certainly stands up on varietal character. The colour shows the typical light gold with the definite green hue. Aromas are restrained with green herbal tones; the palate complex and full bodied with the typical green pea and white pepper characters with some bay leaf and capsicum. Firm, lively acidity gives a clean finish.
La Bratta 2013 Bianco, Margaret River
Arlewood Estate makes white and red wines under this label in limited quantities. The website mentions ‘Chardonnay blends’ which confuses me as I can only find Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc characters modified by fermentation in oak. This style is big and complex, with rich aromas of green fruits and oak. The flavours are powerful with lemon citrus, green herbs and a distinctive lanolin background and there’s plenty of oak. A wine made to last but needs more time to integrate. An ‘enthusiast’s wine’ and not for the fainthearted.
Alpha Box & Dice 2014 Rebel Rebel Montepulciano, Langhorne Creek
Montepulciano is a red variety of central Italy and not to be confused with the Tuscan village of the same name. This wine is my favourite of the tasting. A pleasant surprise for a grape I have always considered average. The wine is vibrant, showing real personality. The nose is beautifully enticing with perfumed fresh sweet berries and red fruits; flavours of confectioned red cherries, cranberry, a touch of cinnamon; acid is fine, clean and penetrating and tannins are fine grained and soft. Highly recommended.
Hither Yon 2013 Tannat, McLaren Vale
Tannat (meaning ‘tough, little one’) is a variety originating in Madiran in southern France. This is the first Aussie example I have seen. It’s a deeply coloured wine – brick red with purple edges. The nose is enticing with spicy dark plum, cloves and eucalyptus; the palate has dark fruits, liquorice with a leather touch. It has the expected firm gripping tannins. It’s very complex for its youthfulness and drinks well but will benefit from a couple of years in bottle.
La Prova 2013 Sangiovese, Adelaide Hills/Barossa Valley
Central Italy’s flagship grape needs little introduction now – Sangiovese is probably the most established of the European ‘natives’ in Australia. This wine shows the typical garnet colour with a savoury nose, evident acid, cherry kernel and ripe plum flavours, and fine grained tannins. It’s a sound wine for current consumption.
All these fascinating wines have been made available for this review and for this month’s Doctors Dozen from The Wine Thief, 69 McCourt St, West Leederville, phone 0414 836 439.