From humble beginnings in 1997 in the Denmark sub-region, West Cape Howe has since grown to be a major WA producer of quality wines. Its success can be largely attributed to two of the four ownership partners – manager Gavin Berry, who has vast winemaking experience in the region, and adept viticulturist Rob Quenby.
A major turning point in their road to success was the purchase of the Langton property in Mt Barker – previously Goundrey Wines – which is now West Cape Howe’s home base, with a large winery and 100ha of quality vineyard. Fruit comes from their 210ha in the Frankland River sub-region, and from smaller parcels of fruit from other selected growers.
The five wines reviewed capture the varietal expressiveness of this great region and are exceptional value for money.
WEST CAPE HOWE 2023 Old School Mount Barker Chardonnay (RRP $22)
Displays fig, ripe honey dew melon and cashew. Supple. Malolactic secondary fermentation has softened this wine, but there is enough acidity to carry the flavours and give structure. French oak fermentation adds complexity. Drink now or over several years.
WEST CAPE HOWE 2022 Frankland River Tempranillo (RRP $22)
A fine example of this Spanish variety which continues to gain popularity in Australia. A deep red/purple colour. Aromas savoury, with red berries/redcurrant. The palate supple, with the ‘milkiness’ that I find in tempranillos. Blackcurrant flavours. Fine-grained ‘dusty’ tannins. Oak not central to the style if there at all. A complete easy drinking wine to drink now, and which will gain with 3-4 years’ cellaring.
WEST CAPE HOWE 2023 Mount Barker Riesling (RRP $22)
From the Langton property. Very much in the Lower Great Southern Riesling style, with pristine, pure, linear fruit profile. Crisp, fresh, and clean. Aromas of citrus lemon and lavender. Flavours of Meyer lemon, with a talcum and river pebble mouthfeel. Drinking well now but will gain in complexity for those who enjoy aged Riesling.
The next two wines tasted were from the more premium range, selected from the best parcels of fruit in the more mature vineyard sites, and are very good, and exceptional value.
WEST CAPE HOWE 2019 Book Ends Mount Barker Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $36)
This is classic Cabernet. Attractive ruby/garnet colour. Nose complex with blackcurrant/cassis and cedary oak. Follows to blackcurrant and cassis on the palate. Fruit driven. Oak gives structure. Fine grained tannins glide across the palate. Supple, complex, integrated and long- lingering flavours. Youthful for its five years, with another 10 years ahead for this wine.
Reviewer’s Pick
WEST CAPE HOWE 2019 Two Steps Mount Barker Shiraz (RRP $36)
My wine of the tasting. Difficult to separate from the Cabernet in terms of quality, however, I am always vulnerable to Great Southern shiraz. Leaps from the glass with vibrant spices and white pepper. Flavours of powerful, mouth-filling ripe primary fruit. Rich plummy spice infused flavours. Savoury elements on the finish. Has elements that remind me of the great syrah wines of the French Rhone Valley, while still remaining very cool-climate Australian. Another 10-year wine. Cellar some now while still available.
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