By Dr Craig Drummond, Master of Wine
It was in 1967 that Perth Cardiologist Dr Tom Cullity planted vines on his Vasse Felix property in Cowaramup, Margaret River region – one of the first to plant vines in the now internationally known region.
Vasse Felix has been blessed by a procession of fine winemakers. Cullity employed Cumbrian cheesemaker and self-taught winemaker David Gregg, with their first vintage in 1972.
I was lucky to work the 1987 vintage with David and witnessed his prowess. He later became owner, with his hard work setting the benchmark and creating the wine styles that have made Vasse Felix famous.
He sold to the Holmes a Court family in 1987 but continued for some years as their viticulturist/winemaker. Follow on winemakers Clive Otto and currently Virginia Willcock have pursued quality to an even higher level.
As well as the home Estate they own several other properties within the region totalling over 230 hectares of vines. Their focus has been on the most premium Margaret River varieties – Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Wines are released in several quality levels. The Filius range is the entry level wine, followed by the premium range of greater quality and longevity. Then there are the super-premium Heytesbury Chardonnay and Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec.
But it must be said having tasted the Filius wines that all are of very good quality.
The wines
Vasse Felix Filius 2025 Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc, RRP $28
Attractive limpid light gold colour with a green tinge. Bright, clean, penetrating aromas without being overstated, displaying lemon pith and grapefruit. The palate has flavours of peach and green apple. This wine is drinking very nicely now.
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Vasse Felix Filius 2025 Margaret River Chardonnay, RRP $30
Very good entry level Chardonnay and good value. Palate focused and linear with citrus and grapefruit. Wonderful lively acidity. Oak just comes through adding a little textural weight.
A very pleasing early drinking style that will also drink well for another two to three years.
Vasse Felix 2024 Margaret River Chardonnay, RRP $46
The premium level Chardonnay from the 2024 dry, warm, early vintage but has not compromised the fruit quality in this wine. Nectarine and citrus flavours with roasted cashew from oak, alongside complex flavours of white peach and Nashi pear.
More intense and complex than the Filius, will drink well for a few years.
Vasse Felix Filius 2023 Margaret River Shiraz, RRP $28
Plush fruit across the palate. Oak in the background indicative of maturation in aged oak. Fruit characters of ripe satsuma, plum, blueberry, black pepper and allspice. Tannins fine grained and supple. The pepper and spice characters in this wine suggest that fruit was sourced from the cooler more southerly areas of Margaret River.
Good current drinking. Has the integrity and structure to cellar for another five to seven years.
Vasse Felix Filius 2013 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, RRP $30
A great value entry level Cab Sav. The addition of some Malbec has added a savory supple edge. Nose is fruit driven, leafy with varietal blackcurrant. Palate shows blackberry, dark plum and dried herbs. Fine grippy tannins.
Made for current drinking but will reward for another three to five years.
Reviewer’s pick
Vasse Felix 2023 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, RRP $56
This premium wine is richer, deeper and more intense than the Filius. For me, it is what Margaret River is all about.
The deep ruby red colour suggests this wine is youthful. Nose shows classic Margaret River cassis. It is oaky and complex. Wonderful flavours of blackcurrant and black olive follow on the palate. Intense fruit with layers of quality oak, fine acidity and supple tannins all beautifully integrating.
If this wine is premium, then I can’t wait to get my hands on a bottle of the super-premium Tom Cullity. A great wine that will give pleasure for 12 to 15 years.
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