By Dr Craig Drummond
Frankland Estate vineyard and winery is located in the Frankland River subregion of Australia’s most vast wine region, the Lower Great Southern – a region that, in my opinion, produces Australia’s best cool climate Shiraz and some of our greatest Rieslings.
The property was established by the late Barrie Smith and Judi Cullum in 1988. I witnessed the energy and fervour with which they approached the project in those first years when all of us in the region were learning the ropes of vine and wine.
They laid the foundations for the family business, the 35 hectares of vineyard and the winery now run by brother and sister Hunter and Elizabeth Smith, alongside Elizabeth’s husband, Brian Kent who has led the winemaking since 2010.
Organic Certification was achieved in 2009. The wines are marketed in several quality levels. The Estate wines are varietal Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
The Isolation Ridge Wines, from the original plantings, are of premium quality and represent quintessential expressions of their site. The high premium wines are Olmo’s reward and in exceptional years the Smith Cullum Riesling and Syrah wines.
Frankland Estate is remote, but well worth the visit.
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The wines
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge 2024 Riesling, RRP $60
From a warm, dry, low yielding vintage resulting in plenty of fruit flavour. Vibrant floral and lime aromas. Palate shows the regional lemon citrus flavours against a ‘slaty’ iron flint background.
Pristine, linear and pure. A touch of textural complexity from a small portion of barrel ferment will add to this wine’s longevity. A 10-year wine.
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge 2024 Chardonnay, RRP $60
Shows a complex ‘mealy’ aroma which I love. Hazelnut and mango skin, flavours of stone fruits/white peach. Textural but with a mineral backbone. Malolactic fermentation has been blocked giving a core of firm acidity that will give a few years ageing. Only 50 dozen bottles produced.
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Frankland River Isolation Ridge 2023 Syrah, RRP $60
Great cool climate Syrah (Shiraz) from a coolish vintage. Aromas of white pepper, violets and plum have been lifted by the addition of 2% Viognier. Palate displays blackcurrant, wild herbs and cinnamon. Maturation mainly in older larger format French oak adds a savory austere edge. An 8-10-year wine.
Frankland Estate Isolation Ridge 2023 Mourvèdre, RRP $60
This variety emanates from Southern France, particularly Bandol, and is usually a blending variety. A fascinating wine. Perfumed aromas with rose petal and potpourri. Sweet fruited on palate, displays blueberry. Nice punchy tannins. Amazing ripeness for this late-ripening variety in a cool vintage. Only 110 dozen produced.
Frankland Estate 2022 Olmo’s Reward, RRP $95
A tribute to Prof. Harold Olmo, the Californian viticulturist who in 1955 identified this region’s potential for full bodied red wines. A blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, 7.5% Cab Sav and 2.5% Mourvedre, there were 350 cases produced.
The aim of this wine is for an “elegant, harmonious, medium-bodied blend”, certainly achieved in this example. The Cab Franc certainly dominates, with its lifted perfumed aromas, and grassy, blackcurrant leaf, raspberry and red fruit characters. A terrific wine with a 12-year future.
Reviewers pick
Frankland Estate 2023 Smith Cullum Syrah, RRP $125
Produced in only the very best vintages from carefully selected parcels of the highest quality fruit – a wine to recognise the founding partners.
The concentration of this wine accentuates all the Shiraz characters with layers of flavour. The quality parameters – intensity, complexity, length and finish – all well and truly met. A 15-year wine.
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