Every West Australian wine consumer will be familiar with the iconic winery, Houghton. Established in the Swan Valley in 1836, it became a part of WA history and put the Swan Valley on the Australian wine map.
Of particular note was the contribution of legendary winemaker the late Jack Mann, who did a staggering 51 vintages at Houghton Wines. In 1937, he created the Houghton White Burgundy, a Chenin Blanc-based wine, which has been one of the biggest selling wines in Australia and still enjoys good sales (since 2005 as Houghton Classic White to comply with EU labelling laws).
More recently Houghton Wines has been purchased by multinational company Accolade and, in 2019, underwent restructuring with the sale of its Swan Valley Estate. Now it is concentrated in the Great Southern and South West with all wine making through its winery in Nannup. Vineyards include Moondah Brook (145ha), Pemberton (92ha), Mount Barker (74ha) and Frankland River (89ha), with fruit also sourced from Margaret River, Harvey and Ferguson Valley. Cellar sales are combined with Brookland Valley Wines in Margaret River.
Wines tasted for this review are all from the new ‘Premium Release’ range, and all at the same mid-market price point. Whilst not aspiring to the level of the great Jack Mann or Gladstones high premium releases, they are honest, good value, well-crafted wines that reflect their variety and/or origin.
The Wines
Houghton Premium Release 2021 Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (rrp $30)
Attractive in the glass, limpid with a green-gold hue. The nose resplendent, typifying this Margaret River blend, with overt fresh cut grass, dried herbs and green pea. The palate clean and crisp with zingy acid giving structural integrity and a long refreshing finish. Flavours of lime, grapefruit and green capsicum. A lean style with lowish alcohol of 12.5% suggests early picked fruit. Best consumed now but will drink well for a couple of years more.
Houghton 2019 Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon (rrp $30)
From a good vintage in Frankland. An elegant style with underlying fruit power. The nose is intense, with violets, blackberry and vanillin oak. Flavours of redcurrant, mulberry and some dark chocolate. Very fine grained tannins, drying at this youthful stage. Firm acidity, great structure. Oak is dominant but will integrate. A nice Cabernet with a 10-12-year future.
Houghton Premium Release 2020 Frankland River Shiraz (rrp $30)
A solid, full bodied, mouth-filling wine. As I have said in my past articles, Shiraz from the Lower Great Southern subregion of Frankland River seldom disappoints, this wine being no exception. Deep red colour with a purple meniscus indicative of this wine’s youthfulness. Aromas of black olive, ripe cherry, with a touch of white pepper. Palate shows satsuma plum, ripe mulberry, plus that varietal spice and pepper. Mellow and integrated. Supple finish. A young wine that will reward over the next 8-10 years.
Houghton Premium Release 2021 Margaret River Chardonnay (rrp $30)
My pick of the tasting. This wine has vibrant lifted aromatics showing stone fruit, tropical pineapple characters, and cashew nuts. What I like about this wine is the fruit intensity on the palate, and the balance of fruit, acid and oak. Shows nectarine flavours, mealy characters from lees contact and nutty oak nuances. A very enjoyable value-for-money wine, drinking nicely now, but with qualities which will give it a further five years’ life.
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