It is a pleasure to again review this trail-blazing iconic Margaret River producer, and again the four wines tasted were of the highest quality. Cape Mentelle was central to bringing the Margaret River region to recognition in Australia and subsequently to international appreciation.
Winning consecutive Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophies with their 1982 Cabernet in ’83 and the 1983 Cabernet in ’84 was central to this recognition, this trophy being awarded to the best Australian one or two-year-old dry red wine. And indeed, they have subsequently played a leading role in establishing the definitive Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon style, which is now sought after world-wide.
Their 145ha of estate vineyards includes all the highly recognised regional varieties and gives them total viticultural control as there is no need to use non-estate fruit.
I was excited to review their Zinfandel for this article. This distinctive variety had its origins in Croatia and is closely related to the Primitivo variety from Italy, and while Californians like to claim it as their own, it did not get planted there till the 1880s.
There are very few Australian examples of this variety, and I consider the Cape Mentelle Zin to easily be the best in Australia. It was planted in 1974, with the Californian connection being Cape Mentelle founder David Hohnen.
Cape Mentelle is now part of the international giant LVMH – Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy.
The Wines
Cape Mentelle Margaret River 2018 Shiraz (RRP $49)
A big ripe, fruit-driven wine. Since I reviewed this wine last year, it has shown a very slight evolution, now more mellow and integrated, but still with a long life ahead. Deep red in colour, the meniscus is lighter than last year. Spicy Shiraz aromatics, with cardamon and cinnamon. In the mouth, very full bodied and spicy, especially on the finish. Redcurrant Spanish black olive and blackberry flavours are concentrated and bring the high alcohol into balance. The tannins are ‘punchy’, the acid firm, giving structural integrity. A good South-West Shiraz style.
Cape Mentelle Margaret River 2018 Zinfandel (RRP $65)
If you like big bold flavours, huge tannins and alcohol warmth, then this ‘Zin’ is for you. I, for one, like these characters and have followed these wines since the early releases. The colour, a youthful deep garnet/ruby. Aromas of rich fruitcake and bramble berry. On the palate, big flavours of black fruits, dark chocolate, forest floor, and that characteristic briary edge. Tannins are long, fine and drying. A great zesty palate gripping finish.
Cape Mentelle Margaret River 2020 Chardonnay (RRP $60)
A shining example of Margaret River Chardonnay. Displays a youthful green-gold colour. Beautiful aromatics, rich and redolent, with peach, orange blossom and oak characters coming through. The palate has a wonderful textural mouth-feel, with flavours of mango and ripe peach, a touch of butterscotch and cashew from the perfectly intertwined oak. A long clean finish by way of balanced acidity. A real beauty with 8-10 years ahead of it.
Reviewer’s Pick: Cape Mentelle Margaret River 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $110)
WOW. The essence of Margaret River. The flagship of Cape Mentelle, and from that great 2018 vintage. Without question it is the top wine of the tasting. Appearance is still so youthful with its bold
colour. Aromatics are enticing — cassis, dried herbs and smoky oak. The flavours abound with blackcurrant, blackberry and ripe plum, all with a superimposed gamey earthy character. The tannins fine-grained, firm and persistent. This wine shows power combined with elegance. There is purity of fruit and structural integrity. As much as I love this wine now, it will reward cellaring for another 20 to 30 years. Oh, if only one might still be around to experience that!
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