It is indeed a pleasure to again review the wines of this great Margaret River producer. Since my first article in 2012, they have continued to climb the quality ladder.
Located in the Wilyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, in what one might call the ‘dress circle’, they certainly compare with famous neighbours in terms of quality production.
The vineyard was established in 1985 and has 14ha of vines with plantings of the mainstream regional varieties – Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz.
Winemaking has been under the direction of the vastly experienced Jeremy Hodgson since 2015, and wines are marketed under several quality levels, the mainstay being the Fermoy Collection (or Estate Range), with Estate Reserve wines the pinnacle of quality and only produced from selected parcels of the best fruit.
Fermoy Margaret River 2024 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (RRP $30)
A great expression of this popular regional blend. The season was warm and dry, resulting in an early vintage, with fruit of good quality. It was one of those nice years when the Marri blossom kept the birds from the vines. This wine is vibrant and enticing, with the 63% Semillon giving dominant aromas of fresh herbs and guava and the Sav Blanc adding citrus notes, pungency and spices. Palate weight is excellent by way of fermentation and maturation in oak. A nice wine, displaying the synergy of these two varieties in the classic Margaret River style.
Fermoy Margaret River 2020 Wilyabrup Cabernet Merlot (RRP $30)
Needs to breathe off a little in glass to dissipate some ullage characters, but quickly freshens up. A 50% Cab Sav, 40% Merlot, 10% Shiraz blend. Displays aromas of dark berries, dried herbs and cardamon, with a distinct savoury edge, which leads to a supple smooth mouthfeel, a mid-weight, mid-length wine with a fruity finish. Tannins are softened by the Merlot. Oak is evident but not central to the style. Flavours of mulberry, redcurrant and black olive, with a touch of spice. A good everyday wine and should drink well up to five more years.
Fermoy Estate Margaret River Wilyabrup 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $55)
Great to taste a wine again from that classic 2018 vintage. The wine is still youthful at six years, with deep garnet/red colour, the meniscus only slightly softening. The nose displays some beautiful development. The slow ingress of oxygen is evident, resulting in a wonderfully complex, integrated mix of superb fruit and oak. It has the Margaret River cassis foremost, backed up by silky black olive, sage and supported by cedary oak. This wine is drinking nicely now. Complex, integrated and complete, but has the structural elements to go another 8-10 years.
Fermoy Margaret River 2023 Reserve Chardonnay (RRP $80)
This wine is from the top Reserve range, a classic MR Chardonnay and certainly my wine of the tasting. Has a luminescent mid-gold colour, attractive in the glass. The nose is rich, ripe and inviting. Shows hazelnut characters, and wonderful toasty oak. The fruit is intense, succulent and mouthfilling, and displays white peach, grapefruit, cashew and oatmeal. All the winemaking techniques come into play here – quality oak, creamy malo-lactic fermentation, lees stirring – all giving to an intense, balanced, complex and lingering wine. I love this wine now, but it will reward with a few years cellaring.
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