Mark Warren is a champion of the lesser known varieties in Margaret River. Varieties such as Gamay, Vermentino, Fiano, Grenache and Tempranillo have all found their way to his Yallingup winery.
With degrees in science and wine science coupled with years of teaching wine science and advanced sensory at Curtin University’s branch in Margaret River, he is well equipped to explore many paths that others may not choose to follow.
After starting his career at Lamonts in the Swan Valley, he moved south where he has been the winemaker at Happs for the past 22 years. In addition. he makes wine under his own Marq label as well as finding the time to consult with many other small wineries. He is responsible for producing 60-70 different wines a year.
This month’s tasting was most enjoyable. All the wines were beautifully made, each highlighting the best sensory characters of the variety in the glass. All are eminently drinkable right now.
2024 Marq Vermentino (12.9% ABV, rrp $28)
This popular Sardinian variety is given four days of skins contact to bring out texture and flavour. Stainless steel fermentation and early bottling capture the fresh aromatics of flowers, tropical fruit and fine talc. Palate is clean, dry, mouthfilling and a touch savoury. A very appetising alternative to the semillon, sauvignon blanc style.
2023 Marq Epiq Chardonnay (12.8% ABV, rrp $55)
From the cooler part of Margaret River around the village of Witchcliffe, the best of the chardonnay harvest is wild yeast fermented in new oak (50%) then left on lees for 10 months prior to bottling. A very refined bouquet of peach, grapefruit and a touch of spicy oak. very crisp and clean in the mouth. Powerful yet tight with the promise of opening more with time. This is classic premium Margaret River chardonnay.
2023 Marq Serious Rose (13.1% ABV, rrp $28)
From Grenache grown in southern Margaret River, early picking with two-hour skin contact, then five months’ lees maturation in old barrels. Vibrant pale salmon pink in colour. Heady fragrance of berries and flowers. Palate has texture with soft tannins and clean well-rounded dry finish. Indeed, a serious rose.
2023 Marq Lo-fi Shiraz (13.7% ABV rrp $30)
The most interesting wine of the tasting. Premium shiraz fruit made ‘au naturel’ with no chemicals. A tribute to good viticulture. Only a touch of sulphites at fermentation. This wine has seen no oak, having matured in large concrete eggs and bottled unfiltered. Pure berry fruit spicy shiraz with lovely mouthfeel, soft gentle tannins and a clean long finish. You could call this a Syrah style. A very successful collaboration with Marq and Old Bridge Cellars. Definitely worth seeking out.
2022 Epiq Malbec (14.01% alcohol, rrp $55)
The best parcels of Malbec from a single Wilyabrup vineyard are fermented to dryness on skins for 15 days before receiving 18 months maturation in 1-year-old oak. This wine has an exuberant aroma of rich ripe red and blue berries and violets leading to an intense fruity sweetness in the mouth. The flavours linger long and seductively. Oak is hardly evident. such is the power of the malbec fruit. A real cracker!
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