By Dr Craig Drummond, Master of Wine
Mr Barval Fine Wines is an exciting new-ish producer located off Caves Road in the Witchcliffe subregion, right in the heart of the Margaret River wine region.
In 2022, Robert Gherardi and family purchased the property from Mr Barval. Rob comes with considerable experience in viticulture and oenology, gained both in the Margaret River region and also a number of vintages in the Piedmonte region of Italy.
At Mr Barval, Rob has reinvigorated one hectare each of Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz. In 2023 a further 2.5ha of plantings were undertaken, which include Chardonnay, Nebbiolo, Marsanne and Roussanne.
However, most of the fruit is purchased from growers in the subregions Wilyabrup, Wallcliffe and Karridale. All winemaking is onsite.
The reviewed wines are all interesting and of very good quality. I love the European influences in his wines.
Winemaking is traditional, with minimal intervention. Ferments are with wild yeasts, varieties are often blended, with the introduction of some lesser-known European varieties.
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Ferments are often initiated with a petit cuvee a week prior to harvest. Oaking is predominantly in seasoned oak.
The wines
Mr Barval 2024 Rose Margaret River (RRP $33)
Made from Shiraz grown on the home estate. The style of this wine takes me back to Tavel in Southern France. Shows attractive salmon skin colour.
Aromas are restrained, savoury and complex. Palate displays fresh, crisp acidity and minerality. Underlying secondary red berry flavours come through. A really good drink-now Rose style.
Mr Barval 2024 Prima Alba Margaret River (RRP $33)
Made from the first Sauvignon Blanc off the estate vineyard. The nose instantly says this is something different for a Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc.
Piercing intensity, yet with complexity. Citrus lemon and grapefruit abound. Matured in seasoned oak, and three months on lees have created this style. Palate is pristine and pure. Charming to drink now, with the structure to go 3-4 years.
Mr Barval 2024 Mistral Margaret River (RRP $40)
A blend of Viognier 73% and Marsanne 27%. Perfumed floral aromas, apricot, peach and coriander stalk. Palate is textural and mineral. Dried apricot and marzipan. A clean acid finish.
This is a fascinating wine. Often these Rhone varieties are overtly unctuous. Good viticulture and winemaking have contained that.
When the home estate Roussanne is ready (the third Rhone white variety) it will add another dimension to this blend.
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Mr Barval 2024 Chardonnay Margaret River (RRP $55)
Fruit for this wine came from Wilyabrup and Karridale, which is the most southerly and coolest subregion giving grapes of high acidity.
On the nose the cool climate fruit characters – Nashi pear, nectarine – abound. Palate shows nice weight. Granny Smith apple, rockmelon. A touch of oatmeal from lees contact.
Creamy texture from malolactic ferment and battonage. Has had 10 months in French oak, but only 14% was new oak, so oak characters are not overt, but add to the nice balance in this wine.
Mr Barval 2023 Vino Rosso Margaret River (RRP $33)
Blend of Petit Verdot 57%, Malbec 24%, Merlot 19%. The aim of this wine is early drinkability, but with some ageing potential, using Bordeaux varieties but excluding Cabernet Sauvignon.
I think this has been achieved. Displays a deep beetroot purple colour. Aromatics are savoury, bucolic, brambly, with a touch of soy. Palate shows vibrant fruit – black cherry, satsuma plum. Gamey. Supple and soft. Harmony of all elements.
Mr Barval 2022 Cabernet Malbec Margaret River (RRP $40)
My favourite wine of this tasting. A real Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Malbec 20%, Merlot 5% and Petit Verdot 5%. The nose is ‘elevated’. Spice, blackcurrant.
Cedar from oak. Fruit flavours of blueberry, mulberry, and a touch of allspice. The tannins are fine grained and ‘dusty’. Oak is integral. Firm acid brings everything together.
This wine is balanced, integrated and very harmonious. Has the structure to drink well for another 10 years. A very good wine.
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