Elegance of France at Old Kent River
It is a few years since I reviewed Old Kent River Wines and I was pleased to get the opportunity to try some of their interesting wine styles. To recap the history, the Old Kent River property at Rocky Gully was purchased by Mark and Debbie Noak in 1985 and they set about rehabilitating neglected areas of cleared bush. Plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay was the first step and later Shiraz. I bought my first bottle of the Pinot Noir in 1998 and it had developed a cult following for the outstanding quality of the wine from such an unknown area at the time.
The Wines
2008 Diamondtina
Sparkling wines from the Great Southern are not common but the 2008 Diamondtina should put an end to any doubts about the suitability of the area to make great bubbles. This is a wine to try on your friends in a blind tasting and ask them from which part of Champagne does it originate? Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay and has spent six years on lees and bottle fermented in the traditional method. What a result! Aromas of toast, peach and honeysuckle leap out of the glass and the bead is fine and long-lasting. There is crisp acid, aged yeast and peach flavours with a great finish. A phenomenal sparkling wine that could easily be confused with a famous champagne house, very good value and I am ordering a case.
2014 Sauvignon Blanc
This wine is definitely not the style that you usually will find in your local wine store. This is picked early so the resultant alcohol content is 12.5% and the flavours are more in the green apple spectrum with clean acid and just a little off dry. It is a refreshing wine with a big palate, a hint of gunflint and some complex flavours. This is well suited to seafood and would be sensational with fresh Albany oysters.
Dr Martin Buck2014 Old Kent River Pinot Noir
Now for the main event! A young Pinot Noir was provided for this tasting and it is a glimpse of how this wine will age and likely reach its peak in the next five years. Since 1985 much has been learned about the best clones and viticultural practice to produce sensational wines. There are some funky aromas in the glass with berries, oak and Bonox all thrown in together. It was a great vintage in 2014 with 14.5% alcohol indicating plenty of sunshine. Still a young wine in Burgundian terms but there is great palate weight, balanced, fine tannins and a lengthy palate. This is another great Pinot Noir from Old Kent River and showcases the style from Great Southern.
2010 Old Kent River Shiraz
Lastly, this wine is a mature, cool-climate Shiraz, or Syrah, that reflects the silky styles from Hermitage. On the nose there are aged oak aromas and subtle berry fruits. The palate is well balanced with soft tannins and smouldering dark fruits. Some further ageing will be interesting but this is a wine that is ready to take out of the cellar. A classic cool climate, Hermitage-style Shiraz with class.
Unfortunately my cruise through France has come to an end. It is a great collection of subtle, elegant wines that highlight how varied the Great Southern can be and the potential of the region.
