WA wine pioneers Dr Peter Pratten – a radiologist – and his wife Elizabeth planted their first vines in 1974 on a site by the Capel River, Stirling Estate. The first vintage was in 1980. They also had the foresight to recognise the quality of other West Australian regions, and went on to plant vines in the premium districts of Mt Barker in 1985 and in Wilyabrup in the Margaret River region in 1999, becoming the first producer to have holdings in three different wine regions.
A reputation for quality wines quickly followed. Their total vineyard area is 52ha. In 1986, the Capel Vale Riesling was named the Australian Dry White Champion.
More recently, the 2020 Scholar Vineyard Cabernet and the 2020 Whispering Hill Shiraz won gold medals in the Decanter World Wine Awards in 2022. The 2021 Whispering Hill Riesling was also awarded gold medal and three trophies at the WA wine show in 2021. Their son, Simon, took the reins of the company in 2007 and has clearly maintained and refined the overall quality of the product.
The value of having access to three distinct viticultural sites has allowed for sourcing grape varieties most suited to the particular region. Hence, riesling and shiraz are from Mt Barker, cabernet and chardonnay from Wilyabrup, and merlot and malbec from Geographe where the winery is located just out of Capel.
Vinification and viticulture here is first order. The wines tasted show great finesse and balance and I believe are in the “world class” category.
2021 Capel Vale Whispering Hill Riesling
Whispering Hill is located between Mt Barker and the Porongurup Ranges. From 40-year-old vines and a cool, low-yielding vintage, this has all the hallmarks of a great Australian dry Riesling. Lifted aromatics of citrus, honeysuckle and talc flow into lovely generous crispness on the tongue and all the way down. Lingering aftertaste. No aggressive phenolics here. Lovely with white fish or just before dinner as aperitif (12% alcohol, $39.99)
2020 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label
This Cabernet is for lovers of fine Bordeaux. From a low-yielding vintage, the cassis, olive, chocolate, cedar aromas and fine grain tannins come together seamlessly. The wine is long on the palate and beautifully balanced. Delicious and approachable now because of its balance but will certainly open out further in five years-plus (14% alcohol, $49.99)
It is hard to pick a favourite, as both are lovely wines. It is certainly well-worth stopping by the winery in Capel!
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